In 1929 (Shōwa 4), with the issuance of “Regulations on Regional Clothing”1, all previously existing cold-weather gear, tropical clothing, anti-mosquito equipment, anti-dust gear, and other such items from the Taishō period were consolidated under the category of Special Regional Clothing. For cold-weather garments, there had previously been distinctions such as “extreme cold zone” and “subarctic zone,” but these classifications were abolished on the grounds that they created logistical issues for supply. This document includes diagrams for each item, and these appear to have served as the prototypes for the specifications of special-purpose garments used throughout the Shōwa period.
The Cold Weather Coat I’m introducing here was designed for extremely cold climates and made with materials such as raw silk floss or fur. Since lightweight, high-insulation fabrics like those we have today did not exist at the time, the coat was made extremely thick. Even the small size weighs about 3.5 kilograms.
As of 2025, there are virtually no reproductions of cold-weather clothing, so collectors essentially have no choice but to search for authentic examples. In recent years, only Meiji-period cold-weather vests have appeared on the market, largely due to the influence of Golden Kamuy.
Shōwa 18 (1943) issue, Osaka Army Clothing Depot, Small size
Let’s start with the exterior. This one is the short-pile type. There are two hooks on the back, and the belt is passed over these hooks to fasten the garment and prevent it from slipping down.
Looking around the collar area, you can first see that a hook has been attached. The buttons are made of wood.
The long, hexagonal piece attached to the left collar is the “Men-Ohi” (face cover tab), which is used to connect the collar to the right side when the collar is turned up.
This Cold Weather Coat has a double-breasted design, with buttons and buttonholes on both sides. This is a feature often seen in older military coats, allowing the wearer to switch the front overlap depending on the wind direction.
For example, if strong wind is blowing from the right side, fastening it with the right side over the left helps reduce wind intrusion.
Small loops are attached to both shoulders, and these are meant for threading the cords of the Cold Weather Mittens. Even when the gloves are removed, the cords keep them connected to the coat, helping to prevent loss.
On the left side, an inspection stamp is applied, along with a marking indicating “Artificial Fur.”
The interior is a slightly yellowish khaki color, and the hooks on the back—being points that bear significant stress—are stitched on very securely.
The sleeves are buttoned and detachable, with the removable sleeve marked with the size “Small.”
There are two pockets at the waist: one is a standard pocket for the Cold Weather Coat, and the other is simply a hole, allowing access to the pocket of the uniform worn underneath.
The back hem can also be loosened by unbuttoning, allowing for easier movement. It is likely that these buttons were undone when riding a horse or in similar situations.
I dressed the mannequin with the Cold Weather Cap and Cold Weather Canteen Cover. The Cold Weather Cap, Cold Weather Coat, Cold Weather Canteen Cover, Canteen, and Bread Bag are authentic, while the rest are replicas.
Shōwa 18 (1943) issue, Army Clothing Depot, Medium Size
This one uses long-pile fur. The back is different, featuring sword hanger instead of hooks.
Apart from the difference between the hooks and sword hanger, the other specifications are almost identical to the other coat.
This one is made with long-pile fur, which feels very soft to the touch.
The buttons on the face cover tab are wooden, but the large buttons used to fasten the front are made of resin. Some of the resin buttons are chipped, so in terms of durability, the wooden buttons seem superior.
There are loops on the shoulders for threading the cords of the Cold Weather Mittens.
Next to the inspection stamp on the left side, “スフ” (Sufu) is stamped. “スフ” is an abbreviation for staple fiber, referring to a man-made fiber—essentially a type of rayon by modern standards. The lining inside is dark green.
A sword hanger is attached to the left waist. The sword hanger is identical in shape and size to that of the Type 98 Tunic.
Instead of hooks on the back, buttons are installed, allowing the buttonholes at the hem’s edge to be fastened to them, which lets you lift the hem. Similarly, the buttons on the back hem can be undone to expand it.
The removable sleeves are the same, but these also indicate left and right in addition to the size. Indeed, once removed, it would be hard to tell which arm they belonged to.
Similarly, one of the waist pockets is just a slit, allowing access to the pocket of the tunic worn underneath.
I also dressed this on a mannequin. The Cold Weather Cap, Cold Weather Coat, Cold Weather Canteen Cover, Canteen, and Bread Bag are authentic, while the rest are replicas.
Sword Hanger
Both of the two coats introduced this time were manufactured in 1943 (Showa 18), yet they show differences in the design of the sword hanger.
In the illustration included in the aforementioned “Regulations on Special Regional Clothing”23, the garment is depicted not with a sword hanger but with hooks attached to both hips.
However, when consulting the Army Clothing Specifications Collection, the illustration revised in Showa 18 shows that the hooks had been eliminated and replaced with a sword hanger.
In other words, it appears that—just like the wool overcoat—the design transitioned from a hook type to a sword-hanger type.
The fact that both the old and new specifications coexist within the same year of manufacture is a particularly intriguing point.
Footnote
- “Regarding the Regulations for Special Regional Clothing” JACAR (Japan Center for Asian Historical Records), Ref. C01001082500, Permanent Documents, Class A, Category 1, Showa 4 (National Institute for Defense Studies, Ministry of Defense) ↩︎
- “Army Clothing and Equipment Specifications Collection, Volume II / Part 1: Finished Clothing / Provisional Material Tables for Clothing Items (2)” JACAR (Japan Center for Asian Historical Records), Ref. C14010284500, Army Clothing and Equipment Specifications Collection, Volume II, October Showa 17 (National Institute for Defense Studies, Ministry of Defense) ↩︎
- “Army Clothing and Equipment Specifications Collection (2nd Supplement), Volume II / Part 1: Finished Clothing / Section 3: Special Locality Clothing” JACAR (Japan Center for Asian Historical Records), Ref. C14010288400, Army Clothing and Equipment Specifications Collection, 2nd Supplement, January–April Showa 18 (National Institute for Defense Studies, Ministry of Defense) ↩︎
