In order to dress in the military attire of the Imperial Japanese Army during the Greater East Asian War period, there are primarily three types of uniforms:
- Showa 5 (1930) design the Showa 5 Military Tunic and Trousers (Shōgo-shiki Gun-i-ko/昭五式軍衣袴)
- Showa 13 (1938, 2598 in the Imperial calendar) design the Type 98 Military Tunic and Trousers (Kyūhachi-shiki Gun-i-ko/九八式軍衣袴)
- Showa 18 (1943, 2603 in the Imperial calendar) design the Type 3 Military Tunic and Trousers (San-shiki Gun-i-ko/三式軍衣袴)
There are also variations such as tropical uniforms for hot climates (Bōsho-i-ko/防暑衣袴) and wartime-issue uniforms (Decisive Battle Uniforms), but this analysis will primarily focus on the more versatile options.
The “Gun-i” (軍衣) refers to the tunic, while “Gun-ko” (軍袴) refers to the trousers, and together they form a set called “Gun-i-ko” (軍衣袴). There are both cotton summer versions and gauze winter versions available. They are often referred to as Type 98 Summer Tunic and Trousers (Kyūhachi-shiki Natsu-i-ko/夏衣袴) or Type 98 Winter Tunic and Trousers (Kyūhachi-shiki Fuyu-i-ko/冬衣袴) respectively.
When starting a military gear hobby, it’s a good idea to begin with summer uniforms. If you plan to wear military gears for activities like air soft where you’ll be physically active, then summer uniforms should be sufficient unless you’re dealing with extremely cold conditions or snowy weather.
There are several ways to acquire the Type 98 Summer Tunic and Trousers.
When it comes to obtaining the Type 98 Summer Tunic and Trousers, the following methods are available:
Original
Obtaining a original Type 98 Summer Uniform is the most reliable and accurate method. If you reside in Japan, you can use platforms like Yahoo! Japan Auctions to acquire original items. For those living overseas, eBay and similar platforms may be your best option.
Acquiring original items is indeed the most reliable method, but there are several important points to note.
- Size Discrepancy: People from that era were generally smaller in stature compared to modern individuals, making it difficult to confirm if the item will fit.
- Decreased Availability: Recently, the number of items available in the antique market has been decreasing, causing the prices of well-preserved items to rise.
- Ethical Dilemma: There is also an ethical question about whether it’s acceptable to wear and potentially damage well-preserved original items.
Regarding point 1, it’s true that even individuals of average or slightly smaller stature by today’s standards can find it challenging to fit into original vintage items. It becomes even more difficult for those with larger body types. Replicas, on the other hand, are designed to accommodate modern body sizes, offering a wider range of size variations. This makes replicas a practical choice for many enthusiasts.
Regarding point 2, it’s true that the availability of military collectibles, including summer tunics and other items, has decreased over time. Prices for such items have been on the rise, likely due to their scarcity and historical value. Summer tunics, being made of cotton, are generally less susceptible to damage from pests, but as you mentioned, metal buttons can corrode over time if not stored properly. This corrosion can affect the fabric and may require replacing the buttons with replicas or suitable alternatives.
Regarding point 3, the decision to wear and potentially damage or wear out historical military collectibles is a matter of personal choice. Some collectors prioritize preserving the historical value of these items and prefer not to wear or use them extensively. Others may choose to wear them for specific purposes, such as reenactments or photoshoots, while taking care not to cause significant damage. Using replicas for activities like airsoft games, where wear and tear are likely, is a practical approach to preserve the condition of valuable historical items. Ultimately, it depends on individual preferences and the historical significance of the items in question.
An original, size 3 uniform manufactured in 1940 (Showa 15). It appears to have been last used by a corporal, as the rank insignia for that rank was found in the pocket. The buttons were decayed, so I have replaced them with S&Graf’s replica buttons.
Nakata Shōten
Nakata Shōten (中田商店) is a military shop located in Ameyoko, Ueno, Tokyo. If you happen to have the opportunity to travel to Tokyo, please consider visiting it. It’s a well-known store among military enthusiasts in Japan, and it has been offering various military gears replicas and more for a long time. However, in recent years, possibly due to a decrease in demand and other factors, many items are out of stock, limiting the available purchases.
Formerly, there were two Nakata Shōten stores, one in Ameyoko and one in Okachimachi, both located near Ueno Station. The Okachimachi store used to display a wide range of Japanese military-related military gears. However, in 2020, the Okachimachi store closed down, and the inventory was consolidated into the Ameyoko store. I personally visited the Ameyoko store after the consolidation and found that there were hardly any Japanese military military gear items displayed on the shop floor. However, I was informed by the staff that if there was something specific I was looking for, I could simply ask, and they would retrieve it from the back for me.
As of 2023, it seems there is still stock available for the Type 98 Summer Tunic and Trousers, and they can be purchased through online shops. However, whether they can be shipped overseas would need to be confirmed. Since most Japanese individuals may not speak English, attempting to communicate with the store over the phone in English might not be successful. If you have the opportunity to visit Ueno in Tokyo in person, it would be a good idea to go to the Ameyoko store and ask the staff to show you their available stock.
Regarding the quality of Nakata Shōten’s Type 98 Summer Tunic and Trousers, this is my personal opinion, but I would rate them around 80 points. They have a good overall texture and the shape of the pockets, among other details, is well done. According to what I’ve heard, they intentionally reduce the quality of certain details to avoid these replicas being mistaken for original items. In particular, it’s said that Nakata Shōten’s older replicas, particularly those from around 2000, are of better quality than more recent batches, so it might be worth looking for them on Yahoo! Japan Auctions.
This is a product from the very early batches of Nakata Shōten, enhanced with details by Nori. The collar hooks, buttons, collar protector, collar insignia, and chest insignia are all made by Nori.
HIKISHOP
HIKISHOP is an online store that sells replica military uniforms and equipment from World War I and World War II from various countries around the world. The products are shipped from Hong Kong, so it seems their base of operations is located there. They also offer a variety of Japanese military uniforms and equipment, including those from the Imperial Japanese Army.
As far as I know, if someone living outside of Japan wants to buy Japanese military uniforms and gears, HIKISHOP is likely one of the most cost-effective and quality options. (If anyone knows of other good online shops or alternatives, please share.)
In my opinion, the quality of HIKISHOP’s Type 98 Summer Tunic and Trousers would be around 70 points. It has a decent overall appearance, but there are some distinctive features, and those with detailed knowledge would recognize it as a “HIKISHOP product.” The most noticeable difference is in the shoulder silhouette. The original has sloping shoulders, but HIKISHOP features angular shoulders. Furthermore, the hooks on the collar are attached in the opposite position (right and left), but this can be easily corrected by repositioning them.
However, it’s not to say that HIKISHOP products are terrible by any means. The price is relatively budget-friendly compared to other replicas, and it’s suitable for hard use in activities like airsoft games where wear and tear are expected. Personally, I also have a Type 98 Uniform from HIKISHOP; I’ve worn one out and have a second one as a backup.
Regarding HIKISHOP’s Type 98 Summer Tunic and Trousers, it’s known to shrink significantly when washed. Therefore, it’s recommended to purchase a slightly larger size than your actual body size to account for this shrinkage.
While HIKISHOP’s products have distinctive features in terms of shoulder silhouette and fabric color when compared side by side with others, it’s still a viable option considering ease of acquisition and other factors.
S&Graf
S&Graf is a company based in Osaka that sells replica military uniforms and related items from various countries around the world. They have physical stores in both Osaka and Tokyo, and I typically use the Tokyo store. They also have an online shop where you can purchase various Japanese military uniforms and related items. They also have unique items like rubberized belts and ammunition pouches that were part of the equipment used in the Southern Front.
S&Graf’s Type 98 Summer Tunic and Trousers, to be honest… well… I’d rate it around 50 points. Especially the summer uniform has some fatal flaws. While the overall fabric texture and silhouette are good, the details like the pockets and collar shape are completely different from the original.
Regarding S&Graf’s Type 98 Summer Tunic and Trousers, I used patterns taken from the original and made some adjustments myself. I introduced the process in this article. With these adjustments, I believe I was able to bring the rating up to around 80 points.
Additionally, S&Graf sells replica metal buttons for the Type 98 Summer Tunic separately. I also used these buttons to restore an original tunic that had deteriorated.
S&Graf’s Type 98 summer uniforms are available in two variants: those with metal buttons and those with plastic buttons resembling bakelite. The photo shows the version with plastic buttons. If you have advanced sewing skills, it can be an interesting option for modification, but if you can acquire Nakata Shōten’s products, there may be no need to specifically consider this choice.
