In a previous article discussing replicas of the Type 98 Summer Tunic, I introduced S&Graf’s products. While the fabric texture and overall silhouette are good, there are some disappointing aspects, making it a bit hesitant to wear as is.
Therefore, I decided to create a modification by drafting a pattern from the authentic item, and I will share the details in this article. The process involved painstakingly undoing stitches and sewing anew, which took a considerable amount of time. However, the result is quite satisfying, significantly improving the overall condition.
Comparison with the Authentic Item
From left to right: the authentic item, S&Graf’s original, and S&Graf’s modified version. The most noticeable differences are in the shape of the chest pocket flap (Soto-monoire-buta/外物入蓋), followed by the collar shape and hooks. Additionally, although it may be hard to discern in this photo, there are also discrepancies in the shape of the pocket flap at the waist and the design of the sword hanger (Ken-tome/剣留).
Chest Pocket Flap
The following photos compare the chest pocket flaps. In both cases, the left side is the authentic item, and the right side is S&Graf.
S&Graf has not accurately reproduced the pointed shape at the center. After undoing all the stitches that connect the fabric of the flap, I resewed it following a pattern created from the authentic item. Fortunately, the buttonholes could be retained as they were. It’s important to note that making the flap too sharply pointed may result in a look resembling an officer’s custom-made military uniform, so caution is needed (unless intentionally trying to adopt the appearance of a seasoned non-commissioned officer).
Waist Pocket Flap
The provided photos compare the chest pocket flaps. In both cases, the left side represents the authentic item, while the right side represents S&Graf.
As for the corners of the pocket flaps at the waist, they now exhibit a gentler, more rounded curve. I also undid and resewed these for improvement. However, since these details might not be apparent without a side-by-side comparison, it may be optional to modify them.
Collar
The following photos compare the collars. In both cases, the lower part represents the authentic item, and the upper part represents S&Graf.
The collar on the S&Graf product is generally larger, and the angle of the collar tip is more relaxed compared to the authentic item, which has a sharper angle. I undid and resewed the entire collar, but aligning the details at the collar tip proved to be challenging.
The hooks on the S&Graf product are too large, and their attachment is not secure as they are simply sandwiched between the fabric. I replaced the hooks with Fujikyū No.3, finding a commercially available size that closely matched.
Sword Hanger
The following photos compare the sword hangers. In both cases, the left side represents the authentic item, and the right side represents S&Graf.
As you can see, the S&Graf sword hanger is awkwardly shaped and too thick, making it difficult to smoothly pass a sword through and causing it to bunch up.
I removed the sword hanger, reshaped it to improve its form, and then sewed it back in place.
In Conclusion
Thus concludes the modification of S&Graf’s Type 98 Summer Tunic. While there were other issues, such as the stitching position of the pockets, attempting to fix them would have required unraveling the entire garment, which seemed impractical. These are subtle differences that might not be noticeable without a careful side-by-side observation.
This time, I didn’t have a sewing machine, so I did everything by hand, and it took an incredibly long time. To be honest, I questioned whether it was necessary to invest so much effort, and if that’s the case, it might be better to look for a well-preserved actual item. However, if it’s challenging to find a authentic item in the right size or if you want a Type 98 that you can use without hesitation, especially for activities like airsoft, it could be a decent option.
